In recent years, Monday nights have often seen restaurants shuttered and quiet in cities across the UK. However, Little Capo, located in the vibrant heart of Edinburgh’s New Town, tells a different tale. At 18 Howe Street, diners bask in the ambiance of negronis and dishes like pappardelle with ox cheek ragu, even on dreary Mondays.

The impressive team behind Little Capo reads like a dream crew of Edinburgh’s culinary scene, including Stuart McCluskey from the Bon Vivant group, hospitality duo Will and Jess Oxenham with experience from Sydney and New York, Robbie McDermott (Bon Vivant, Lady Libertine), and head chef Jamie Broussine (Decanter, Bodega). Their collaborative effort seems to have cracked the code for success in a tough market.

Since beginning regular seven-day service last month, Little Capo was buzzing when my dining companion Dina and I arrived at 5 PM—the last table available when we booked. By 7 PM, the restaurant was at full capacity, with servers noting this busy atmosphere is commonplace every night.

What sets Little Capo apart is its unique charm and style, which at first glance may seem commonplace in urban dining, yet nothing quite compares. The easygoing atmosphere is matched by a visual appeal: the restaurant’s salmon pink facade boasts bold “CAPO” lettering that commands attention on the street.

Inside, the restaurant exudes a confident vibe with retro artwork adorning the walls, a substantial bar and dining counter, and enthusiastic servers eager to ensure a delightful experience. Bright orange hues characterize the decor and tableware, while the menu, which changes daily and is printed on A3 paper, emphasizes the restaurant’s “Italian-ish” theme. Dishes include Jerusalem artichoke risotto, sweet ricotta gnudi, hearty cioppino, and affogato with a drizzle of amaro to finish.

Grab a Quick Drink?

The cocktails at Little Capo are enticing enough to warrant a quick visit for an after-work drink. I tried a negroni sbagliato bianco, featuring Cocchi Americano instead of gin, which proved to be a delightful and refreshing choice. The wine selection by the glass impresses, featuring a crisp, pure jacquère from Savoie and a juicy sangiovese.

We decided to share three smaller plates alongside two larger ones. Although minor flaws were noted with each dish, the overall quality and value were commendable. The burrata paired with diced beetroot, honey, and pangrattato offered a textural delight, albeit needing a touch more acidity to balance its sweetness. The charred purple sprouting broccoli and kale were presented in a creamy, garlicky bean puree, smoky yet perhaps overly salty, while the broccoli’s firmness is not to everyone’s taste—though it suited Dina perfectly.

Generous Parmigiano

A special caprese dish was also recommended by our enthusiastic server, drizzled with a tangy vinaigrette. While the presentation was appealing, the flavors were somewhat muted compared to expectations. Among the mains, the ox cheek pappardelle stood out as a crowd favorite, with three out of four diners at the next table thoroughly enjoying it. While the pappardelle itself could use a bit more bite, the dark, rich sauce combined with nutty celeriac puree created an exceptional pairing. And yes, there’s ample parmesan to enhance it further.

The ricotta gnudi, akin to a lighter take on gnocchi using semolina, was also divided in opinion. With dessert-like sweetness from nutmeg and roasted butternut squash, it reminded me too closely of gulab jamun for comfort. We concluded our meal with a £5 slice of daily cake—an earthy honey, nut, and stewed rhubarb delicacy that was slightly dry. A dollop of crème fraîche could have elevated it, but overall, Little Capo demonstrates no shortcomings in ensuring its successful run. It’s clear that this little establishment is making quite a mark in the culinary landscape of Edinburgh.

Little Capo, located at 18 Howe Street, Edinburgh.

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