Garum Restaurant Review: A Culinary Adventure in London’s Queensway
If you’re planning a lunch outing, consider these three outstanding options: one casual, one upscale, and one quick. Whether you’re short on time and seeking a speedy bite, eager for a leisurely dining experience, or in the mood for a sophisticated treat, there’s something here for you.
Let’s start with the quick option—Tenmaru. This authentic ramen restaurant opened in Finsbury Park in 2019 and expanded to a second location near Oxford Circus in 2023. It exudes a cozy, makeshift vibe on a quiet street, featuring a row of handcrafted MDF booths along one wall, pausing abruptly where supplies ran out, and transitioning to tables. Arrive before 12:15 for the chance to snag a booth—it’s a more pleasant experience.
The staff is friendly and welcoming, the music predominantly K-pop, enhancing the atmosphere. The ramen here stands out with its firm texture and delightful flavor—a rarity in London. The signature dish, tori paitan, priced at £16.90, is a rich, milky broth of chicken, featuring sous-vide chashu chicken, black fungus, bamboo shoots, bean sprouts, green onions, and a Tenmaru-branded boiled egg, whose luscious yolk enhances the broth beautifully.
For an extra kick, opt for the spicy mazesoba (£17.90): a soupless noodle dish topped with miso pork mince, nori, onion, and egg yolk, or try the unique Oden special (£13.50), which features a dashi broth with an assortment of Japanese fish cakes. While my favorite waiter suggested it wasn’t to his liking, its carb-free nature appeals to those watching their diet. Additional izakaya staples like excellent gyoza (£8.90) and karaage (£9.80) round out the menu. Overall, Tenmaru earns a solid 7/10.
Garum
Next up is Garum. This Roman-inspired eatery is anything but conventional, located amid a mini-Chinatown on Queensway, nestled between a Subway and a Burger King. Decorated with graffiti-covered bricks and suspended bottles, Garum invites diners with its eclectic pop art and playful ambiance, even providing whimsical instructions like “Follow your instinct” leading to the restrooms.
On a recommendation from my friend, former restaurant critic Matthew Norman, I visited to experience the culinary prowess of chef Francesco—alas, he wasn’t present, but his sister-in-law stepped in and was reportedly just as talented.
Garum’s menu is unique, focusing on “Aperitivo” and “Antipasti,” along with “Paste e risotti” and “Contorni,” with no traditional mains listed. However, they do offer two types of pepper, which will soon become a highlight of the dining experience. Wine options include a straightforward selection by the glass and a handwritten reserve menu with exceptional choices at various price points, mostly available in limited quantities, according to our amiable waitress Natasha.
We sampled croccante di baccala (£12), a delectable salt cod fritter paired with homemade aioli; slow-cooked Ramata onions on bruschetta (£9.50); and baby octopus in spicy tomato sauce served with crispbread. The artichoke heart cooked with mint (£9.50) was good but could have used a drizzle of melted butter or vinaigrette for extra flair. Overall, the cooking is homely yet delightful.
The standout dish that compels a return visit is the carbonara (£19.75). Using dried rigatoni from Pastificio Soldati, it features perfectly al dente pasta combined with pure egg yolk—no whites—creating a rich golden sauce that embraces crispy guanciale. Topped with antique parmesan and served with both black and white pepper options, this dish is unforgettable.
“Our white pepper from Cameroon enhances creaminess, while black pepper from Indonesia adds a spicy kick,” explained our server, making it a first for me to receive a pepper tasting with provenance. Contrarily, the risotto agli scampi (£27) fell short—bland and lacking in texture, featuring only a single langoustine. We opted for a pinsa romana (£18.50), an airy flatbread topped with mozzarella, sun-dried tomatoes, and anchovies, delivering a charming homemade touch. With great fun and a stellar carbonara, Garum scores a 6/10.
45 Jermyn St
For those seeking an upscale experience, 45 Jermyn St, part of Fortnum & Mason, is a perfect choice. This charming restaurant, which took over from the old Fountain restaurant in 2015, boasts elegant interiors and knowledgeable staff in snazzy uniforms. They confidently recommend dishes like the smoked trout panipuri (£18.75), claiming it to be superior to the raw mackerel and caviar tacos (£22.50).
Both dishes were exceptionally prepared, as was the Portland dressed crab (£29.50) enjoyed by my companion Libby Purves. I savored a delightful monkfish in champagne cream sauce (£35.75), while Libby relished her tandoori chicken salad (£26.50). Although we skipped beverages, the coffee and petits fours were excellent. Overall, this dining experience earns an impressive 8/10.
Tenmaru, 50 Margaret Street, London W1. Garum, 68 Queensway, London W2. 45 Jermyn St, 45 Jermyn Street, London SW1.
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