On a pleasant 22°C day in Southall, I head towards the Brilliant, one of London’s iconic Indian dining establishments, which is on the verge of shutting its doors. Inside, the atmosphere is cooler, with co-owners Gulu Anand and his daughter Dipna settled at a round table by the window. A cold pint of Kingfisher beer and two trays of vegetable samosas await us.

Gulu, sporting a distinguished moustache, opened the Brilliant in 1975 after purchasing a former fish and chip shop for £17,500. He recalls that “Little India” was still emerging during that time, but business thrived, prompting him to acquire the adjacent butchery for £127,000 just four years later. This initiated several expansions.

“In those days, the area felt quite small, and there weren’t many Indian eateries, but a community was beginning to develop, with many Punjabis, Somalis, and eastern Europeans arriving,” Gulu reflects.

“We were the sole restaurant on this street back then. Starting with 36 seats, Formica tables, and plastic chairs, we managed to fill the place daily. Patrons came from Kenya, India, and across London. My first customer, a local builder, continued to visit for two decades.

“Indian cuisine is among the most significant culinary traditions in Britain, standing alongside fish and chips and roast dinners. There’s a genuine affection for it, and I take pride in having contributed to its status today,” he shares.

As time progressed, the Brilliant’s renown only grew, with Gulu and his team frequently turning tables up to three times nightly. Celebrities like Kevin Costner were known to drop by for butter chicken after arriving at Heathrow, while King Charles’s fondness for the restaurant has been a well-documented fact, especially since his first visit with Camilla in 2007.

“Upon hearing he was opening a factory nearby, I wrote to Clarence House inviting him to our restaurant,” Gulu recounts. “Initially, they politely declined, but I followed up with another letter, and it paid off. They visited, spending nearly two hours dining and mingling with the staff.”

Now 41, Dipna has a background in cookbooks and television shows. She reminisces about the long lines outside the restaurant. She notes that the dishes have always been rooted in Punjabi traditions, though they have seen some modernization to adapt to the present day. Having a Kenyan lineage, Gulu initially ran a nightclub also called the Brilliant back in Kenya.

“Many of the recipes stem from my grandfather’s tradition,” Dipna explains. “They’re as genuine as they come. Once you taste the food here, you understand what authentic curry is. A lot of it is inspired by the Mughal era when Persians entered the Indian subcontinent. People visit from afar to savor it.”

“What began as a neighborhood eatery has transformed into a destination restaurant. Children who enjoyed our food now bring their own kids,” she adds.

The term ‘institution’ is often overused in food discussions, especially in London, but in this case, it remains fitting—a cherished venue that has captivated both locals and travelers alike.

In the days leading up to its impending closure, the news reverberated throughout London, causing considerable disappointment among patrons. One regular even offered Gulu, now 70 years old, a £1.5 million investment for half the establishment, contingent on his continued presence.

“Dad is ready to retire,” Dipna explains. “It’s well earned after 50 years of dedication.”

However, the situation extends beyond retirement; establishments like the Brilliant have been enduring the harsh realities of a fluctuating economy.

“Patrons expressed their sadness about our closing, yet many hadn’t dined with us in years. It’s understandable—people simply can’t afford to eat out as frequently anymore,” Dipna shares.

Gulu elaborates, “Even before we announced our closure, we sometimes saw the restaurant half-empty, leading to a rush once the news broke. The dining climate today is different, with rising taxes, utility costs, and food prices. For instance, six large tins of tomatoes now cost £17 compared to £9 just a few years ago, and vegetable oil is three times more expensive. This is compounded by the struggles faced during Covid, which forced me to remortgage to stay afloat.”

In an ironic twist, a long-standing patron, Michael Tiney, a funeral director, arrives to join us for a drink and a few samosas. Having frequented the Brilliant for 35 years, he is one of many lamenting the closure following its rich history.

“The food here is incredible, and the staff are wonderful,” he says. “I’ve grown up with them, and the ambiance is unparalleled. This place has always been a favorite of mine. Even when we try other curry houses, they never measure up to this,” he adds.

As the hours pass in the warm Southall sunlight, it seems the right time for me to step away, allowing Michael and Gulu some time to reminisce before the final dining service.

After decades of service, Gulu reflects, “It’s been a remarkable journey. From an initial 36 seats to 280 now, and on busy days, we often find ourselves short on space.”

“This is an emotional moment for my family. There have been tears, but mostly, it’s been a wonderful journey. We’ve had the honor of serving an array of patrons, from locals to royalty,” he concludes.